While some chefs revel in the sprawling breadth of global culinary influences, Tala chef Henry Onesemo (ex-Meredith’s, Apéro and East St Hall) is unapologetically focused on the specifics of the Sāmoan food he grew up with. 

Tala, which opened late last year at the former Pasture site in Parnell, has retained much of its predecessor’s concrete greys and textured wooden accents. Before this sleek backdrop, the space has been made oasis-like by way of lush, leafy arrangements, the warm glow of a singular candlestick at the centre of each table, and the crooning (at least, this has often been the case when we’ve visited) of early 2000s Adeaze in the background.

Upon entry, you’ll be welcomed with a thimble-like cup of something seasonal and non-alcoholic to sip on. This thoughtful hospitality continues throughout the meal with service that is organically warm and attentive, even a little comedic at times. If you’re sitting at the counter seats, you’ll be treated to a kind of interactive spectacle as the kitchen crafts dishes that embody tradition, memory and transformation — Sāmoan style.

For dinner, there are two dégustation options: the “Chef’s Journey”, which comes out in 17 instalments (still less than the 19–23 courses that Pasture used to do), or the slightly smaller “Fāgogo Journey”, which is 13 courses. Many of the dishes reference the childhood snacks Onesemo grew up with, like contemporary takes on raw ramen and banana chips, or slices of fresh fruit brushed with a wincing blend of sumac and amchur. There’s a globular palusami; a version of oka swapping coconut cream for coconut yoghurt; and a deconstructed sapasui of verdant noodles, which turns up capped with a hunk of lamb and finished with a dusting of herbs, garlic and puffed grains. The pièce de résistance is a spatchcocked chicken wrapped in banana leaves with herbs and citrus, cooked on the hot stones of the open umu. If you’re at the counter, you’ll be able to watch the bird get bundled up in banana leaves at the beginning, then unwrapped, carved and divvied up across various plates later on.

What we like most about Tala is that it achieves what many high-end restaurants strive for but often miss: it tells a story, and one that is unique to this part of the world.