San Ray, occupying the former Orphans Kitchen space in the heart of Ponsonby, is an imagined place, somewhere between the southern edge of California and the northern outskirts of Mexico City. This fictional locale was brought to life in July by its owners, Dariush Lolaiy and Rebecca Smidt, who at least until now have been better known for their stewardship of long-running game restaurant Cazador.

In contrast to the enigmatic, storied atmosphere of Cazador, with its cocoon-like ceilings, walls adorned with taxidermied beasts and game-heavy menu, San Ray feels like a much-needed getaway for the couple. If Cazador is a brooding older sibling, then San Ray is a perpetually cheerful, sun-kissed youngest child: open all day, flooded with natural light, featuring vibrant purple menus that match the seats and staff clad in easy-breezy chambray shirts. 

The menu at San Ray is largely Cal-Mex in its influence, with Tajín-dusted fries, tortilla soup, a version of Caesar salad and plates of vegetables designed to be paired with servings of wood-fired proteins. The drinks list is especially fun, with wines that traipse up and down Aotearoa and beyond, a decent selection of vermouth, cocktails like michelada and bloody Maria — as well as an admirable non-alcoholic wine and cocktail selection. The star of the entire menu is the chicken, which has been subjected to a three-day journey of preparation before it hits your plate: two days of brining, one day of drying. Finally, it’s wood-fired, carved up and served on a bed of radicchio, bathed in its own juices. It should come as no surprise that people who can master gamey meats like wapiti venison, lambs’ brains and poussin hearts can certainly elevate the humble bird, but it’s the best chicken we’ve ever had — and we don’t say that lightly.