Isaan cuisine, which originates in northeastern Thailand, is probably best characterised by its vivid spice and tang. There is a lot of good Isaan food in Tāmaki Makaurau these days, but this thoroughly casual, family-friendly joint in Henderson stands out as a gem among other restaurants.

Sa-On breaks away from the typical Thai restaurant formula. It simultaneously honours the traditional nuances of Isaan cuisine through perfectly finessed versions of dishes that are difficult to find elsewhere in the city, while also injecting a playful, innovative spirit into its food. 

When you visit, start with the mieng goong (roasted prawns), as a kind of introduction for the palate. Then go ahead and order some of those perfectly executed classics — which, should you choose, can be prepared with a good smack of heat. Though the room might appear austere after a recent update (we miss the eye-catching fabrics which previously adorned the space), the kaleidoscope-coloured dishes, served alongside punchy little dipping sauces and piled high with fresh herbs, fill the space with complexity and brightness. 

The restaurant’s most dazzling dish is their Sa-On zapp haeng, which has become a bit of a viral sensation — for good reason. Imagine an instant noodle cup draped with stir-fried noodles, fresh green peppercorns and flecks of chilli, plus a Flintstone-esque beef rib balanced atop. It’s a dish that perfectly captures the celebratory fun of a restaurant that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Admittedly, the wine list here isn’t the drawcard (and why should it need to be?), so we’d suggest opting for something off their cocktail list — many of these drinks come festooned with a maraschino cherry, or a kitschy mini-umbrella, or both.

Last year, Sa-On made it onto our Metro Eats list, in which we noted that our meal was one of the most vibrant and delicious of the year’s judging. We feel the same this time around.