Sure, Lilian might embody the definition of a neighbourhood restaurant, but it’s also a place worth making a pilgrimage across town to. The casually refined, Italian-ish restaurant in the heart of the West Lynn shops has perfected the equation of pizza plus seafood plus good drinks — which means that everyone seems to want to be here. That, along with their no-booking policy (unless you’re a group of six or more) means that the wait for tables can be long. And yet, people seem happy to do so, slipping down to nearby Freida’s for a drink while waiting for that coveted text to say their table is ready.

Once you’ve secured a table, you could easily make a lovely meal of just starters and smaller plates: a few oysters each to begin, pickled mussels with chilli and aioli, Brussels sprouts made sweet and savoury with honey mustard, caramelised onions and strips of crispy chicken skin or Lilian’s beloved lamb ribs. But the pizza here — with its airy pockets, scorched crusts and ever-changing toppings — should probably make it into your order too. As for drinks, Lilian excels at sophisticated twists on classic cocktails, like a margarita with blood orange and chilli or the cherry Manhattan, and has a well-curated selection of wines by the glass that will go well with a shared pizza or those sticky, flavourful ribs.