We’re still pretty chuffed with the novelty of being able to watch as noodles are stretched out and banged against the table just seconds after placing an order, awaiting their eventual journey to our tables. First, though, they’ll be added to a clear, tasty broth and topped with beef. Don’t be alarmed if the soup is not the spicy-danger-red you see on the menu — it’s not commentary on how well they think you can handle your spice, but rather an addition you have to make yourself with the chilli oil they provide. The noodles here are from Lanzhou: a version of the most popular dish, the Lanzhou beef noodle soup (兰州拉面), first came about in around AD 618 to 907, during the Tang Dynasty. And you’re eating it now, in 2021. Pretty cool.