The main allure of Katsu Katsu lies in its dedication to perfecting its namesake dish. The restaurant was opened as a joint project between two of the city’s best Japanese chefs: Jason Lee, who co-founded Wakuwaku in Remuera, and Makoto Tokuyama of Ponsonby restaurant Cocoro. Situated on that vibrant stretch of Khyber Pass Rd which is in no way short of good food options, the 30-seat restaurant is made up of a mix of high-bar seating overlooking the kitchen, low tables and a few outdoor spots on the front footpath. Though at a glance it might seem small and thoroughly casual, this is a place that treats its signature, people-pleasing dish with an inspiring amount of care. 

The concise, one-page menu reflects this focused approach. On one side of the A4 sheet is a selection of sake and Japanese and local beers, an array of canned chu-hi and hi-ball in a symphony of flavours, and local wines — one of each varietal, all of which come solely by the glass. On the other side of the menu, you can choose from six versions of katsu: tonkatsu (made with Harmony organic sirloin), torikatsu (chicken), ebikatsu (prawn), two iron-plate katsu options and another on a bed of melted cheese — all versions wonderfully tender inside and shatteringly crunchy on the outside. 

The katsu sets arrive quickly, on a wooden tray teetering with teensy bowls of rice, miso soup, pickles, dabs of yuzu kosho, wasabi and umeboshi paste, plus cabbage salad that you can have replenished at no extra charge, should you desire. Beyond the katsu offering, there are snacks like takoyaki, karaage and a potato salad topped with shavings of parmesan, and a range of udon. These dishes — like the kushi udon, which is topped with fishcake skewers, and the goboten udon, served with burdock tempura — are all treated with equal amounts of reverence, even if they’re not the star attractions. Egalitarian in the best kind of way.