We’re fairly certain Huami-the-concept began as a way to attract an imagined influx of Chinese high-rollers whom SkyCity casino was hungrily eyeing at the time. However, when it came time to bring the restaurant to life, chefs Nic Watt and Jeff Tan, who collaborated on its creation, did an amazing job overshooting the initial, somewhat cynical concept — the result is a truly excellent Cantonese restaurant in the heart of the city. Inside, the spaces are massive, but partitioned so as not to feel cavernous; the palette is dark, with richly textured pattern-work and intricate lattices; and there is, somehow, a very aesthetically pleasing display of hanging ducks along the path to the bathrooms. 

The food offers a master class on execution: high-quality produce expertly wok-fried to achieve a satisfying level of tenderness and flavour; seafood fished live from the tank then lifted off the steamers at just the right second; and, of course, the aforementioned ducks, roasted with aromatics in the oven to achieve an impressively crispy skin. It also has an unusually extensive drinks service, boasting the largest list of baijiu in the whole country — appropriate for a city where one-third of the population identifies as Asian and a significant portion of that Chinese.

Also, if you’re after a pre-show meal or just looking for a snack, you can have a very nice time in the restaurant bar, separated from the main restaurant and rendered in black wood, marble and green upholstery, sipping on one of their uniformly excellent cocktails and nibbling your way through a birdcage filled with your choice of dumplings, buns, bao and spring rolls.