Discreetly tucked away on a quiet side street off Ponsonby Rd, Cocoro is an intimate nest of a space. Though it might fly under the radar, evading hype, it stands as a benchmark for Japanese restaurants in the city. 

Each bite here is a lesson in precision — food cooked to perfection, flawlessly seasoned and served at just the right temperature. The glorious sashimi platter, which must be ordered at least 24 hours in advance, is evidence of chef Makoto Tokuyama’s dedication to sustainable seafood. In this veritable treasure chest of the sea, 25 kaimoana species are sliced and displayed on a bed of ice, as if the dish were a still life. A startling thing to behold. And few dining moments are as satisfying as lifting the lid on the beguilingly jiggly Tora Bay pāua chawanmushi.

The dégustation menus here range from $180 to $360, with the option to choose à la carte as well. The recommended way to experience Cocoro is through the “ichigo ichie” dégustation, meaning ‘one opportunity, one encounter’. If you head in this direction you’ll be presented with an array of sublime appetisers, then, afterwards, an abundance of seafood. Pair it with something to sip on, preferably something white: a glass of the various organic or biodynamic wine varieties, Japanese sake or their celebratory champagne options. 

Whether you invest in the extraordinary seafood dégustation, a banquet of sushi and sashimi or a collection of dishes from the à la carte menu, a visit to Cocoro promises slow, concentrated, beautiful eating.