The Pacifica building on Commerce St, which presumably looked a lot better in the architectural plans than it does in the real world, was the site last year of one of the most harrowing cautionary tales for potential apartment-dwellers anywhere. A resident in the building installed a humming vibration device designed solely to antagonise their neighbours. Despite this misanthropic madness and the disappointing execution of the ‘twisty’ architectural concept, the building’s redemption can be found in Bossi — a classic Italian restaurant and deli located on the ground floor.

The two wolves that fight for the heart of Italian masculinity are on clear display at Bossi, the oddly horny air of its website clashing with a massive photo of the proprietor’s nonna, looming over the front half of the dining room, that greets you on entry. Despite this oddness, Bossi is possibly our favourite of the legitimately classy, corporate-card-fuelled spots in the central city — a warmly appointed room dressed with wooden joinery, brass fittings, marble tops and sage-velvet upholstery (not a million miles from the aesthetic choices at Gilt, which is also physically close, at about a three-minute walk from door to door. It all suggests that the city’s lawyers and financiers have been pining for a return to opulent, affluent-feeling environments.). The only misstep in the décor (if you aren’t put off by the aforementioned expression of nonna-culture) is an oddly conceived, massively rendered detail of the Creation of Adam from the Sistine Chapel ceiling, which sits on the wall above the booths.

Metro contributor Sunita Patel visited Bossi a few times shortly after it opened and was impressed by the restaurant’s classic Italian cooking, from seafood to pasta to steak to cannolo especially, and she continues to visit regularly. There is also surprisingly good accommodation for vegans. However, we’d be remiss if we did not recommend a visit during truffle season, when they will cook you a bowl of spaghetti, toss it through a crater dug into the side of a massive block of Parmesan cheese, and then shave a bunch of truffles on top. Every single forkful will be an absolute delight. Do have a side of broccolini, rocket or statins with it, though — it’s rich as hell.