In what is perhaps the best-looking new opening of the past year, Ada sits in newly renovated The Convent Hotel, previously St Joseph’s Lodge and, much earlier than that, a nunnery. The fit-out is dramatic and captivating, with theatrical arches, rustic peeling walls and a high, glass-ceiling atrium which looks over half the dining room. We’d come for that alone.
Thankfully, the food is delicious, too. Ex-Cotto chef Hayden Phiskie and Johnny Price (also ex-Cotto, Rita and Clay) are in the kitchen, working on handmade pasta and deep-fried pizza frittas, ideally to be shared among a group. It’s fantastically easy eating, heavy on the carbs (you can even add in an anchovy or burrata toast to start) and exactly the right kind of salty. If you’re worried about the heaviness, there’s usually a bright salad or some greens, though even the brussels sprouts come with stracciatella here.
You can also drop in for a drink and some snacks in the little entry room off the hallway, which acts as a bar area for walk-in revellers. Expect to wait, though, and book ahead in the main dining room if you can — this spot is incredibly buzzy, with a cool, place-to-be-seen atmosphere that makes you feel like you’re truly part of the city.