Metro Wine Awards 2025

Apr 9, 2025 Food

Well, well, well. What a lucky bunch we are to live in a land where the wines span almost every conceivable style, for every conceivable budget. It’s easy to forget just how privileged we are as wine drinkers here. Not only that, but the top Big Red in this tasting (a Sicilian syrah) is a reminder of how well served we are by our importers, too — and not just the well-known names.

Normally in these tastings, there are collective sighs and rollings of eyes when we get to categories such as cheap sauvignon blanc, commercial rosé, entry-level pinot gris and the like. But this year, despite some of that eye-rolling at the start, nearly every flight of wines tasted was a positive and even enjoyable experience.

There’s also phenomenal value across the top wines: none of the top 10 are priced over $60 and eight of them are under $50.

Not only that — what a spread. The top 10 alone has a Sicilian syrah, a low-intervention chardonnay, a classic chardonnay, a Bay of Islands chardonnay, an off-dry riesling, a sherry-style chenin (yes, you read that correctly), a low-intervention pinot noir, a classic pinot noir and a sweet riesling. That’s a by-the-glass list that would do any restaurant proud. It’s also the kind of eclectic group you won’t find from other wine awards in this country (but that’s enough shade to throw right now).

In fact, the spread across the top 50 is quite something, covering almost every New Zealand wine region, from Dancing Petrel and The Landing in the Far North, right down to Gibbston Valley in Central Otago. If we could see more of a couple of regions, Waipara and Gisborne would be on my wishlist.

Proving that magnums are great (was proof needed?), and that blind tastings are capricious, Marlborough sparkling producer No. 1 Family Estate’s No. 1 Reserve label magnum outscored its 750mL sister. This means that what is effectively the same wine gets a mention twice in the top 50, which may feel a little like cheating. (If you’re upset by this, wine number 51 was Church Road’s McDonald Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2021.) But to be fair to the people at No. 1 Family Estate, they did ask us in advance if it was all right to submit the standard bottle and the magnum, and we said yes.

Are two different-sized bottles of the same méthode traditionelle truly different wines? The decision was far from unanimous. A minority of judges marked the two bottles identically (or very close to identically!) and yours truly preferred the wine from the standard bottle on the day, but in the end, the aggregate scores ranked the magnum above its smaller stablemate. That’s one of the beauties of blind tasting — no preconceptions, a few received ideas put into question, a few surprises and a lot of fun.

While we’re on the subject of sparkling wines, this year saw a pétillant naturel outscore the top méthode Champenoise wines — no mean feat, not least from a pinot blanc. But there is a warning here. While the majority of the flights we tasted, from commercial sauvignon blanc to chillable reds, were in the main very good, the sparkling wines, particularly the méthode traditionelle (i.e. Champagne styles), produced some of the more underwhelming spreads this time round. That’s a shame. I worry a little that some producers haven’t quite unlocked that next level of excellence, but I also think that’s more of a reflection on what was submitted than on what’s available on these shores. We’ll hope for better next year, and content ourselves in the meantime with the stellar wines we rated this time round.

There were more dry wines in the chenin blancs this year than we’d expected — “which is great”, said judge Pete Connell — and you’ll find examples of both dry wines and off-dry numbers in the top 50 list. In fact, the majority of chenins (to be upfront, these were Oak Estate, Mt Difficulty, Decibel, Petane, Luta, Ashleigh Barrowman’s Queen of Cups and Colere) impressed us this year and most of them were indeed dry — and delicious. As such, I can only recommend trying them out if you’re looking for a break from chardonnay or pinot gris and the like.

As for pinot gris, that category too held some surprises. It’s hard to know if the recent weather or just shifts in winemaking are the cause, but the pinot gris examples that graced our tasting certainly seemed much fresher (and less cloying and weighty) in style. That’s a good thing, although as the pinot gris variety rarely has much by way of natural acid, you can’t help but wonder if winemakers are using a few tricks to up the freshness levels. Nonetheless, the resultant styles are generally much more pleasurable to quaff.

Once again, this list is a reminder that you don’t need to spend a fortune to get great wine with great personality made by great people — if anything, this country’s roster of small-outfit brands, and their success in these awards, provides us with an enviable raft of well-priced, well-made wines with wonderful flavours and a characterful face to the name. There are now too many to mention, and a host of independent, small-outfit winemakers can be found in the list below.

In the 2024 round of these awards, judge Angela Allan said “you’ve got to spend money on chardonnay” to get to the best examples. It doesn’t need to be an exorbitant amount, but around $50 will generally put you in front of a great bottle on these shores. While the reminder to spend as much as you can on chardonnay remains a good guide, overall the chardonnays showed very well, especially in the $30-to-$40-a-bottle spot. “They’re less forced than they were five to 10 years ago,” said Connell, while Allan said the wines were “very fresh”.

It was a similar story for pinot noir, but in this instance, we’re more tempted to state that you don’t have to pay big bucks to get a great bottle. Sure, the likes of Felton Road, Ata Rangi, and others are phenomenal wines, but a budget between $40 to $50 will, more often than not, secure you an excellent drop. At that price, too, there is an incentive for the winemaker not to overdo it with the oak budget, with the result that great fruit is not swamped in toasty oak.

Also, while we rightly harp on about Central Otago, Martinborough and Waipara pinot noir, Marlborough’s examples are getting better and better. Perhaps it’s because winemakers there are not carrying a heavy reputation on their shoulders that their wines are a little freer and fresher, with the added bonus that they are often more affordable.

Sure, you can still splurge if you like, but as these results show, and coming from a panel of industry professionals tasting wines blind, you don’t need to bankrupt yourself to get a satisfying bottle of wine with oodles of personality.

From the outset, Metro has sorted our tasted wines into Big Red, Light Red, Rich White and Energetic White categories. The reds are still relatively easy to split and classify, but it is getting harder across the whites. We’ll continue to class chardonnay as a bigger white, for example, but be wary — some chardonnays are showing an acid line that would almost challenge a riesling. Chenin blanc also tends to straddle the dividing line.

Meanwhile, in the Rosé/Orange Wines category (historically a set of wines with real lows and real highs), there was a lot to write home about. The orange wines in this tasting really sang — almost across the board. “People are stepping up their game with orange wine,” said judge Renée Dale. “Lots have delicious freshness.”

Our range of Light Red wines — often wines designed to be, or happy to be, chilled — was also excellent. It’s a very popular style and it’s clearly something producers here do very well. While such styles are sometimes helped by cooler or wetter years (Hawke’s Bay’s 2023 cyclone-affected vintage, for instance), we can also achieve this kind of wine without an unhelpful hand from nature. Hopefully, some winemakers (and some drinkers!) can ditch the ego and we’ll see more chilled and lighter red wines in the future.

Indeed, bigger reds — the Bordeaux blends (merlot, cabernet sauvignon, etc.) and syrahs of this world — are generally out of fashion at the moment, but that doesn’t mean such wines can’t provide great pleasure. As noted, our top-scorer was a Sicilian syrah, which demonstrates that you can be a big wine but still have lots of heart and charm.

But the Big Red category often finds wines with lashings of oak (also an issue, as I’ve noted, that affects pinot noirs, globally). It is generally held that toasty oak sits well alongside the full-bore fruit-and-tannin wallop of the punchier grapes and their warmer climate, but it’s a fine line — and one too easily crossed. This was particularly evident in our syrahs this year.

“Why is there so much oak in these wines,” asked Connell. “Why can’t we see more purity?”

Good question.

Tasting note of the year also goes to Connell (“90s throwback nonsense”, about a not-to-be-named sauvignon blanc), although there were numerous other contenders: “empty promises — empty palate” (Dale, on a rosé), “oaked to fuck” (Connell, chardonnay), “over aged — needs a walking stick” (Nikki Weir, syrah), “unshowered armpit, sorry” (Sophie Kim, sauvignon blanc), “all over the show” (Edmundo Farerra, chardonnay), “a challenging style for geeks” (Connell, pinot noir) and “instantly forgettable” (Weir, orange wine).

Not all are negative. Allan’s “smells fun” (about an unnamed sauvignon blanc) should spark a range of Metro Wine Awards T-shirts. Others include “smooth jazz solo” (Weir, sauvignon blanc), “bubble gum for adults?” (Kim, pinot noir), “funky town” (Farerra, pinot noir), “oh, that is HOT” (Weir, chardonnay), “little funky, little sassy” (Allan, pinot noir) and “actually quite delicious” (Connell, damning a pinot gris with faint praise).

Lastly, spare a thought, once again, for the wines that didn’t quite edge into the top 50. These included the likes of Yealands Estate’s Single Vineyard Albariño; A Thousand Gods’ Giara orange wine, made with sauvignon blanc and viognier; Fistonich Family Vineyards’ Obliix Rosé; Coxs’ Vineyard Pinot Noir; Luta Wines’ Cirrus Chardonnay; and Mélange Wines’ Nothing but Flowers (another sauvignon blanc/viognier orange wine). Those with a penchant for the overlooked should also make sure to peruse our individual judges’ top 10s.

Winery of the year is a toss-up between Rockburn and Rock Ferry, with both wineries having four wines each in the top 50. The distinction goes to Rockburn by a nose, for having higher-scoring wines overall. Meanwhile, if you’re after something a bit special from small producers doing big things, try the bottles from Outside The Box Wines, Stad_ko, Coxs’ Vineyard, Amoise Wines, Spurlock Vineyards, Marathon Downs, Dancing Petrel, Halite and Three Fates, among others.

And enjoy — we’ve never had it better.

Judges:

Angela Allan, sommelier at large

Mary-Therese Blair (aka MermaidMary), wine writer and enthusiast

Pete Connell, sommelier and co-owner of By The Bottle

Renée Dale, owner and winemaker at Moi Wines

Edmundo Farrera, co-owner of Tacoteca

Hiro Kawahara, sommelier and owner of Somm Cellars

Sophie Kim, sommelier at Intercontinental Group

Oliver Styles, wine writer and winemaker at Halcyon Days

Nikki Weir, sommelier and wine specialist at wine-searcher.com

SPARKLING WINES

Mount Edward Pinot Blanc Pét Nat Central Otago 2023
$45, Certified organic

Best Sparkling Wine 

It’s worth taking a moment to note that a Central Otago pétillant naturel (a style in which the bubbles come from being bottled before fermentation is complete, as opposed to the fermentation occurring a second time in bottle, as most Champagne, for instance, is made) took out the top sparkling wine spot this year. Not only that, it was from pinot blanc — an accepted variety in Champagne, but far from your standard New Zealand fare of chardonnay or pinot noir. Beeswax, quince, apple skin, funky pineapple, with good, grippy texture and apple and lemon length on the palate.

*

No. 1 Family Estate No. 1 Reserve Méthode Traditionelle Marlborough NV (Magnum)
$287

Well, if you’ve ever wondered if a magnum can outperform a standard bottle, this is evidence indeed. Not only does the excellent No. 1 Reserve méthode traditionelle feature twice in this top 50 (see below), but in the judgement of the panel and for whatever mysterious alchemical reasons, the magnum version bettered the standard bottle. So you know what to do. Nice, leesy, brioche autolysis notes and a very faithful follow-through on the palate. Fresh and pure and completely delicious.

*

No. 1 Family Estate No. 1 Reserve Marlborough Méthode Traditionelle NV
$98

The talking point here is that the magnum bottle slightly outperformed this number in its 750ml standard bottle, but not all panellists preferred the magnum and some judges gave them identical (or almost identical) scores. The No. 1 méthode traditionelle in the regular bottle certainly has some lovely lemon and biscuit notes on the nose and bright, fresh acidity on the palate. All of which goes to show that wine rating is as much a personal experience as it is group consensus.

ENERGETIC WHITES

Rockburn Tigermoth Riesling Central Otago 2024
$42

Best Energetic White; Top 10

This wine could almost cross over into the Rich White category, as it is made in the off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) spätlese style, but riesling’s trademark acid line is here, bringing it all into focus. It’s not a style that will please everyone but I love the purity, succulence and all-round loveliness of such wines. Lemon curd on the nose and incredibly lush fruit. Purity and balance with real vibrancy from the crazy-good, lip-smacking, green-apple acidity. “Summer time!” said Farrera. “Breakfast wine,” said Connell.

*

Seresin Mārama Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2022
$45

Best Certified Organic White; Top 10

Although it has dropped off the map a bit of late (with a change of ownership), I’ll always have a bit of a soft spot for Seresin, as it was one of the first wines I remember tasting and loving in this country. Sure, things have changed a bit since the noughties, but it’s heartening to see it crop up again. This is a beautiful, ripe, textured style of sauvignon blanc. Aromatic with notes of lemon, quince and lemon curd. Pretty — so fresh and so long. “Delicious and vibrant. [Have with] sushi and sashimi or asparagus with lemon,” said Kawahara.

*

Rock Ferry The Corners Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Marlborough 2020
$33, Certified organic

The Corners is Rock Ferry’s equivalent of a home block (it’s where the winery and cellar door can be found) in the heart of the Marlborough region. This was one of two grüners that really shone (the other was the Eaton Wines offering, although that didn’t make it into the top 50). Peppery, buttery, honeydew melon and radish aromas with wafts of smoke after fireworks, this has great body, balance and length, with a delicious, salty finish.

*

Tohu Wines Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2024
$18.99

Best Value

Awatere Valley is on Marlborough’s cooler side, often showing vibrant acidity and drive where the Wairau gives more tropical fruit notes and body. This, though, is classic New Zealand sauvignon blanc all round. Nice, aromatic (lemon, jasmine, nettle, gooseberry and seaspray), well made and so delicious on the palate. Had Kawahara dreaming of Caesar salad and Korean barbecue. For under $20, the food budget will get a boost.

RICH WHITES

Outside The Box Wines Clay Pot Potion Number 2 Chardonnay Marlborough 2021
$32

Best Rich White; Top 10

Outside The Box did really well in our 2024 top 50 and this wine shows, once again, that you don’t need to spend a fortune in this country to get great wine with great personality made by great people. Given the costs of production, taxes and so on, spending around $30 on a fantastic wine made by an independent, individual winemaker (in this case, Brad Frederickson, who also does the label art) is a boon. Unfiltered. Fragrant spices, sherbet, lemon zest, lemon meringue pie and citrus fruit. “Such a good talker,” said Weir.

*

Mt Difficulty Ghost Town Lowburn Valley Chardonnay Central Otago 2021
$42

Top 10

Sophisticated and intense; oaky, hazelnuts, with great citrus fruit and spice. Full-bodied yet very fruity. If you’re looking for a smashing combination with some garlic prawns, or, dare we suggest, some fine cheeses, give it a crack.

*

The Landing Chardonnay Bay of Islands 2022
$52

Top 10

If you want a talking point, this is it. The vines for this wine are grown at The Landing resort near the tip of the Purerua Peninsula at the northern end of the Bay of Islands. While it’s immensely picturesque, viticulture in these latitudes is no easy task. Indeed, the vineyard is run with remarkable attention to detail. And what a wine. Creaming soda, roasted fennel, roasted artichoke heart, with a ripe pear and hazelnut palate. Lovely, rounded palate with texture and length.

*

Coxs’ Vineyard Gibbston Pinot Gris Central Otago 2023
$50

Coxs’ Vineyard is a small, family-run affair in the picturesque Gibbston Valley (of AJ Hackett bungy-jumping fame). This is one of the more expensive pinot gris we’ve had at these tastings and it is fantastic. Salty lime, green pear, golden apple, baking spices with crunchy fruit and grapefruit pith on the deliciously dry mid-palate. Composed, clean, textured with great length. “A salted margarita rim,” said Dale.

*

Ruru Pinot Gris Central Otago 2024
$25

Several pinot gris wines in the top 50 this year, showing that what was once a very blousy style (in other words, the wines tended to have a lot of palate weight but were not very fresh) is possibly evolving into something more versatile. This is all white pear, apples, lemon curd and blossom on the nose, with a lovely, fresh, bright palate.

*

Deep Down Blanc Marlborough 2023
$39.95, Certified organic

Deep Down is a venture from former Seresin winemaker Clive Dougall and pal Peter Lorimer, who produce low-intervention wines from organic vineyards in Marlborough. This is their ‘Blanc’ — a blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir. Apple skin, red apples, green pear juice, mangoes, pineapples and papaya. Ethereal, with a great mid-palate and a lovely acid drive. Delicious.

*

Church Road McDonald Series Pinot Gris Hawke’s Bay 2023
$27

Another cracking wine from Hawke’s Bay’s commercial over-achiever. Pinot gris gets a bad rap from wine pros (I’m no exception), but on this year’s showing, positive signs are emerging from a grape that is all too often made in a big, flabby style. This is one of those richer wines but there is still much to recommend it. Lovely, smoky, complex, golden apple and baking-spice notes with a rich, slightly sweet palate and a whack of fresh acidity. A bigger style of pinot gris, but still pleasing, not least on the nose.

*

Neudorf Home Block Moutere Chardonnay Nelson 2023
$95, Certified organic

I tend to feel apprehensive when wines such as Neudorf’s get entered into these tastings — to my mind at least, beautifully poised, understated bottles (particularly chardonnay) are easily overlooked in tastings where winemakers all too often lean on oak and fruit to make a statement. So it’s heartening when such wines make it through. Confident winemaking, not too worked. A driven wine, with texture, purity and a sense of its own identity and place.

*

Marathon Downs Up The Hill Chardonnay Marlborough 2023
$35

Another glorious bottle from the Marathon Downs team, underlining the potential for cared-for, minimal-intervention fruit from a great site in a region better known globally for a very different grape and wine style (sauvignon blanc). This is a chardonnay with personality. Vivid, energetic drive, fruit purity and a savoury, leesy note. This is a wine to take you on a journey; it’s one that totally outperforms a whole host of commercial chardonnays at a similar price point.

*

Wairau River Pinot Gris Marlborough 2024
$20

Very close to Tohu’s Awatere sauvignon blanc in the best-value stakes, this wine has a lovely autumnal note. In fact, it’s a wine that elicited a lot of imaginative responses from the panel. Very demure, floral, with both a pretty aromatic profile and a pretty, almost saline palate to match. This pinot gris has character, which makes it stand out. All the more impressive given the price tag.

*

Eaton Forte Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021
$54

I wish we drank more barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc on these isles — it would encourage the likes of Eaton Wines to make more of it. Great fruit, good acidity, barrel smoke and spice — it’s such a great and versatile combination, and this example is one of the best I’ve had this year. Oaky complexity on the nose with a lovely rich palate texture, excellent minerality, grip, pith and creamy fruit through to a fresh, driven finish. Glorious.

*

Rockburn Pinot Gris Central Otago 2023
$28

“Pinot gris from the streets,” said Connell. Spice, great depth, lovely length, substance. Flinty yet fruity, with green-apple notes and crunchy freshness. Kawahara said he would love this with scampi, but to be honest, any fish will do. In keeping with Connell’s verdict, that would ideally be from the local fish and chip shop. You won’t be disappointed.

*

Oak Estate Chenin Blanc Hawke’s Bay 2022
$28

This organic (but not certified) chenin blanc hails from a gem of a vineyard on the edge of the Bridge Pā subregion. Oak Estate has a name for itself as a foodie destination but the vineyard has shown that it can produce really good wines. This is one of them. It is an off-dry chenin with classic apple and yellow peach notes. Fresh and delicious.

ROSÉ/ORANGE WINES

Marathon Downs Down The Garden Path Rosé Marlborough 2024
$32

Best Rosé

Marathon Downs is a side project for winemakers Jess Barnes and Nick Pett and the label’s wines are produced from their small vineyard on the family property just outside Seddon, in Marlborough’s southern Awatere Valley. This is a pinot noir–chardonnay blend made with minimum inputs (in fact, if you’re into natural or minimum-intervention wines, Marathon Downs’ entire range is worth a look). Lovely red-fruit notes on the nose — red apple, plum, cranberry — with hints of herbs and a crispy, crunchy fruit sensation on the palate. “Makes me hungry,” said Dale.

*

Rockburn Stolen Kiss Rosé Central Otago 2024
$32

Just pipped for the best rosé of the tasting by Marathon Downs’ effort, this is in more of a classic rosé mould. “Gwyneth Paltrow’s 1999 Oscar dress in a glass,” said Weir, which, despite a lack of fruit references, says everything you need to know about the wine. Light pink in colour, with beautiful aromatic notes, and a really nice balance struck with the residual sugar in the wine. A lovely, very clean rosé.

*

Rockburn Amber Pinot Gris Central Otago 2024
$42

Best Orange

Another Rockburn and another pinot gris — although in this instance it was judged within the amber/orange wine bracket and not as a pinot gris per se. The fruit comes from the Gibbston vineyard and was macerated on skins throughout the initial three-week alcoholic fermentation. Then it was aged in neutral oak barrels and later bottled unfined and unfiltered. It’s a great orange wine. Fresh, vibrant, tropical fruit notes with hints of pot-pourri. Real body and depth, a soft palate with a lovely, dry and juicy finish and a great texture that’s not too grippy. Fresh and long, too.

*

Rock Ferry Orchard Vineyard Pinot Rosé Marlborough 2023
$25, Certified organic

Another great wine from top Marlborough site Rock Ferry (this is from the winery’s nine-hectare Orchard Vineyard), and one of a number of rosés in this list that sit in a really affordable price zone. This also has more going on than the straightforward — and often quite simple — fruity rosés you’ll haul from the supermarket shelf. Herbal and savoury in style, with peach and nashi pear notes and a fleshy, voluptuous palate. Refreshing and well worth seeking out.

*

Te Kairanga Estate Pinot Noir Rosé Martinborough 2024
$25.99

Martinborough rightly shines a spotlight on its classic red pinot noirs but the region has oodles of potential, from quality chardonnay and amazing riesling to the oft-overlooked rosés. It is undoubtedly tough to make a case for rosé in a red wine zone, but if a case could be made, this is a good contender. Ripe strawberry and raspberry on the nose; a delightful wine with lovely mid-palate weight.

*

Three Fates Rosé Hawke’s Bay 2024
$35

Three Fates is Holly Girven Russell, Hester Nesbitt and Casey Motley — three friends who have come together to produce some exceptional wines from single-vineyard Hawke’s Bay fruit. This is a rare blend, although the fruit is primarily organically grown syrah from the TK Vineyard in the Bridge Pā subregion. Apples and pears and peach-skin aromas. Lovely balance and savouriness to this wine.

LIGHT REDS

Stad_ko Pinot Noir Martinborough 2021
$45

Best Light Red; Top 10

Stad_ko might be on to something, as the small family outfit of Hayley Bartholomaeus and partner Anton Stadniczenko from Martinborough also did well last year (with their chardonnay making the top 10). This is another cracker, showing just how good (and affordable) well-made, personable labels — minus a bit of corporate waffle — can be. “This is just gorgeous”, was the start of Weir’s tasting note. Notes of cranberry, musk, herbal aromas and dark, bramble fruits. Juicy and complex. All from a family-run vineyard just south of Martinborough town.

*

Dicey Bannockburn Pinot Noir Central Otago 2021
$46

Top 10

Want a pinot noir with a more brooding character? This is for you. Made from organic (but not certified) grapes, the wine has nutty aromas with dark berries and red fruits and some spicy cinnamon notes. Grippy, pithy fruit on the palate with a nice, savoury, balanced finish.

*

Amoise Gamay Noir Hawke’s Bay 2023
$39

A wine by Canadian expat and Hawke’s Bay natural-wine maker Amy Farnsworth once again graces our top 50. This is a smoky, earthy gamay number with incense, sandalwood and smoke notes as well as notes of red roses. Light and tender on the palate but with sweet red fruits and a great meaty, juicy finish. “I want to drink this on the terrace, under the umbrella with sunglasses on,” said Kim.

*

Spurlock Vineyards Yoko Pinot Noir Marlborough 2022
$30

Spurlock Vineyards wine is produced by US expats Jeff and Stacey Spurlock, who relocated to New Zealand 15 years ago. This pinot noir is named in honour of Jeff’s late mother, Marcy Yoko French, who used to visit the couple regularly but died in 2022, aged 81. The fruit is grown from the Spurlocks’ 2.5-hectare vineyard in the Awatere. Organic (but not certified), this is a glorious pinot noir with fruit, structure and complexity. “I fell through the forest floor, face-first into chanterelles,” said Weir.

*

Jackson Estate Vintage Widow Pinot Noir Marlborough 2019
$40

‘Vintage widow’ is a term used to describe the spouse left at home during harvest time while the winemaker is out all hours making wine. It has become a less-gendered term of late, but still, unfortunately, plays into the glamorisation of overwork in the wine industry. This is another great pinot noir from Marlborough. Smoky, dark fruit with notes of dry herb and umami, and also showing a touch of aged complexity.

*

Urlar Gladstone Pinot Noir 2023
$65, Certified organic

One of the last batch of wines at Urlar made by awesome winemaker Jannine Rickards (who left Urlar in 2024 and has her own, excellent, Huntress line of wines, also produced primarily from Wairarapa fruit). Urlar lies in the northern Wairarapa — more Masterton than Martinborough — which often produces surprising wines. This is one. Complex, spicy, earthy, heather and herbal notes with redcurrant and pomegranate. Juicy with some fruit sweetness and fine tannins — classic pinot noir. “An amazing wine,” said Kim.

*

Amoise Cabernet Franc Hawke’s Bay 2023
$39

The second 2023 wine from Amoise Wines in this top 50, showing that the tricky vintage could produce wines of surprising freshness and pleasure with a light-of-foot touch on the palate. Beautiful aromatic notes here, with redcurrants, berries, plum and leafy-stem notes lovely, light and lithe. A juicy style of cabernet franc with a salivating, chalky dryness. Yum.

*

Čuvar Iris Pinot Noir Marlborough 2023
$29.99

As well as a fine prompt to look up those special-character codes on your keyboard, Čuvar is Sir George Fistonich’s new wine brand. Despite a career in the New Zealand wine industry spanning six decades, the Villa Maria founder established Čuvar (pronounced ‘chew-var’) only in late 2023 — although chief winemaker Michelle Richardson, who was previously overseas, had been spotted at wineries in the country well before the release, setting many a tongue wagging. Bright red fruits, blackcurrants and dried oregano with sumptuous freshness and great texture on the palate.

*

Halite Light Dry Red 2024
$36

This is actually a blend of organic pinot noir (although the wine is not certified organic) from Martinborough and sangiovese from Hawke’s Bay, produced in winemaker Haidee’s home region of Martinborough. Halite is one of the smallest commercial winemaking outfits in New Zealand and its production is very small and very limited. This wine is a delicious dry red with notes of smoke, wood, strawberries, cranberries and leather (“herbalicious,” wrote Dale). A lovely, light, bright, dry red wine.

*

Rock Ferry The Corners Vineyard Cabernet Franc Marlborough 2023
$50, Certified organic

Another belter from Rock Ferry’s star winemaker, Jordan Hogg (whose own wine label, Atípico, is also well worth seeking out). In fact, organic vineyard and winery Rock Ferry often does well in these awards — it’s a great example of an organically run single-vineyard site producing excellent and interesting wines. This is one. Herbal and supple with red, forest fruits, spice notes and lovely energy through the palate. Bright.

*

Domain Road Vineyard Bannockburn Pinot Noir Central Otago 2022
$42, Certified organic

Domain Road’s original vineyard sits next to the eponymous Bannockburn Domain campground, just south of Cromwell (Central Otago’s winemaking centre). Given its location, it often flies under the radar, with the pings generally sounding for neighbours Mt Difficulty and Felton Road. But this wine shows just how good other producers can be — and incredibly well priced too. Bright, pure, cassis and red fruit with dried herbs. Great vibrancy through its velvety, textured palate. Delicious.

*

Tititea Pinot Noir Central Otago 2023
$44, Certified organic

Bright, clean, pure pinot noir notes on the nose with red-fruit notes. A lovely, savoury texture and length. So pure. Connell probably said it best: “[It] doesn’t want to make a scene but has lots to offer.” It’s always a concern that such wines don’t shine in blind tastings (the fear is that they got overshadowed by their brasher stablemates) but that didn’t eventuate here. A glorious showcase of its variety and region.

*

High Priestess Pinot Noir 2022
$50

Ashleigh Barrowman is one of Marlborough’s rising (if not risen) stars, crafting a small but excellent range of wines, with little by way of intervention, from a number of top organic sites. Although the wines are often organic and biodynamic, they are not certified as such. Bright, with sweet strawberry and cranberry notes and hints of spice, this wine has a lovely, sinewy texture. Fresh and fantastic.

*

Rapaura Springs Rohe Awatere Valley Pinot Noir Marlborough 2023
$41.99

Rohe is a new brand from long-standing Marlborough winery Rapaura Springs. Meaning ‘territory’ in te reo, it’s their single-vineyard or subregional range, showcasing, in this instance, the cool Awatere Valley. That cooler region is perhaps the key to the beauty of this wine. Intriguing, with a brambly, herbal edge among the sweet-fruit aromas, this is beautifully composed with very direct, fresh strawberry fruit notes. Delicious.

*

Jackson Estate Gum Emperor Single Vineyard Pinot Noir Marlborough 2014
$60

The Gum Emperor vineyard is Jackson Estate’s showcase pinot noir site, sitting on Waihopai Valley Rd in the Waihopai Valley — of former Five Eyes fame. The valley is also one of the so-called Southern Valleys in Marlborough: a cluster of subregions that have a remarkable ability to produce great pinot noir (and, to be honest, other non-sauvignon wines). For a wine that’s 10 years old, this is certainly making a good show of the site. Lovely herbal aromatics, bruised cherry, with a very soft, supple palate, with length and juicy tension. Not for fans of more aged pinot noir.

*

Mt Difficulty Ghost Town Pinot Noir Central Otago 2023
$60

‘Ghost Town’ is a nod to the abandoned settlements so often encountered or referenced in Central Otago’s history. This one refers to an old settlement in the Bendigo region at the top of Lake Dunstan that housed 2,000 Chinese miners during the late 19th-century gold rush. Lovely aromatics, with dark cherry, spice and Negroni notes. Still quite a lot of young fruit on the palate but really rich with great, chalky texture in the tannins. Very satisfying.

BIG REDS

Caviro Tavernello Organico Syrah Terre Siciliane Sicily 2022
$19.99, Certified organic

Best Big Red; Best Certified Organic Red; Top 10

Caviro is one of the biggest wineries in the world. The cooperative is Italy’s largest, and its member vineyards around the country span over 37,000 hectares (that’s on par with New Zealand’s entire vineyard coverage — 42,000 hectares). This wine is an organic syrah produced from vineyards across Sicily. Lovely aromas, red fruits, balance and freshness — it’s such a juicy, delicious wine. “A full-bloomed red rose,” said Kim. “A bit of happiness,” said Weir. Perfect late-evening barbecue red wine.

*

Dancing Petrel Tannat Northland 2021
$50

You don’t see much tannat knocking around these isles. It’s generally a warmer-climate variety which, even at home in southwest France (and, latterly, Uruguay), doesn’t always manage to get fully ripe. Hence a potential affinity to the warmer climes of Northland — and you don’t get much further north (in viticultural terms) than Paewhenua Island, just under an hour’s drive north of Kerikeri. “Monster colour, monster palate,” said Blair. Dark fruits, leather, charred beef, tarry, chunky palate and big tannins, but it’s all in check. Beautiful, with a great finish.

*

Rock Ferry Trig Hill Vineyard Tempranillo Central Otago 2022
$50, Certified organic

Strangely, it seems this edition of the Metro top 50 has covered nearly every one of Rock Ferry’s four major vineyard sites. This one is from their 19-hectare Trig Hill vineyard in the Bendigo subregion of Central Otago. It has a lovely brambly red-fruit profile that is so classic in cooler-climate tempranillo. Freshness, energy, violets; peppery and super-pithy and succulent. Juiciness here is off the charts. What a ride.

*

Church Road 1 Syrah Hawke’s Bay 2021
$120

The Church Road 1 series is this winery’s high-price, high-achiever range and while the contrarian in me wants to laugh off such a price tag, these wines consistently do well. This one is no exception. Dark and dense, with notes of rich chocolate, black peppercorn and dark fruits with great acid. There are layers and layers to this wine. If you’ve got the cash, it’s worth checking out.

*

Church Road Grand Reserve Syrah Hawke’s Bay 2021
$39.99

If $120 for a bottle of Church Road’s top-of-the-pile “1” syrah is a bit beyond your barbecue budget, consider having a crack at this little number: a third of the price from a range that, generally speaking, is just as dependable, and still a great wine for it. Smoky notes (the kind of tobacco aromas that would “hook a child”, said Weir) with some glorious vanilla and violet fruit notes alongside. “Purple rain, purple rain,” said Connell. You know the rest.

*

Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Tempranillo Hawke’s Bay 2022
$40

A second tempranillo on the list, although this one hails from a traditionally warmer region for the variety than Central Otago. Trinity Hill has had the variety for some time and it can show really well, but I find the variety’s reception suffers from preconceived notions of Spanish reds (and Rioja in particular). Tempranillo is not necessarily a beast. Indeed, it is much more inclined to red, raspberry fruit notes and tea leaves than broody, sun-baked plums and an affinity with oak. This is a case in point, with red, raspberry and bramble fruit notes and a lovely, polished succulent palate.

SWEET/FORTIFIED WINES

Mount Edward O2 Oxidised Chenin Blanc Central Otago NV
$60, Certified organic

Best Sweet/Fortified; Top 10

This is for the sherry lovers secretly moving among and stirring within us. As such, it won’t get everyone raving, as the nutty, oxidative notes may be too much, not least for the uninitiated (dare I say ignorant?). But what better place to start? “Lovely sherry with a warming palate and lengthy, delicious flavours,” said Blair. We wish more people in New Zealand were experimenting with and producing such styles and wines — it almost makes you wonder if we’ve been a little too conservative in our winemaking (and wine buying) over the past 40 years.

*

Pegasus Bay Aria Late Picked Riesling North Canterbury 2023
$45

Top 10

Bear with me while I shoot myself in the foot (in commercial terms). To my mind, many of the Pegasus Bay wines I’ve come across in the past few years have so much personality and individuality that, in a blind-tasting context, they’re either going to bomb or shine. It’s almost as if the tasters on the day need to be on the same vibe as the Peg Bay team to really see the wine for what it is. And bingo: sweet riesling with beautiful balance and freshness and energy. Notes of Darjeeling, orange, chamomile and jasmine… the list goes on. “Angel voices in a bottle,” said Weir.

Individual Judges’ Top 10 Listings

These are the individual judges’ top 10 wines, ranked by score, from top to bottom. Where a number of wines have the same score, we have included those wines not in the top 50.

Angela Allan

1. Rock Ferry Trig Hill Vineyard Tempranillo Central Otago 2022
2. Church Road Grand Reserve Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay 2022
3. Mélange Blanc Marlborough 2023
4. Jackson Estate Botrytis Riesling Marlborough 2018
5. Woodside Hill Reserve Merlot Cabernet Franc Waiheke Island 2019
6. Mélange Nothing but Flowers Marlborough 2022
7. Pask Gimblett Gravels Syrah Hawke’s Bay 2022
8. Swiftsure Bannockburn Pinot Noir Central Otago 2022
9. Patria Chica Vino de Pago Aylés Spain 2022
10. Three Fates Arneis Hawke’s Bay 2024

Mary-Therese Blair

1. Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Albariño Marlborough 2023
2. Church Road 1 Syrah Hawke’s Bay 2021
3. Halite Light Dry Red 2024
4. Nautilus Cuvée Brut Marlborough NV
5. Rockburn Tigermoth Riesling Central Otago 2024
6. The Landing Chardonnay Bay of Islands 2022
7. No. 1 Family Estate No. 1 Reserve Marlborough Méthode Traditionelle NV (magnum)
8. Three Fates Cabernet Franc Hawke’s Bay 2023
9. Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Tempranillo Hawke’s Bay 2022
10. Te Kano Northburn Cabernet Franc Central Otago 2022

Pete Connell

1. Marathon Downs Up The Hill Chardonnay Marlborough 2023
2. Rockburn Pinot Gris Central Otago 2023
3. Te Kano Northburn Cabernet Franc Central Otago 2022
4. Atípico Under the Plum Tree Marlborough 2024
5. Seresin Beautiful Chaos Pinot Noir Marlborough 2023
6. Unkel Juno Riesling Nelson 2023
7. Mélange Carte Sauvage Marlborough 2023
8. Mt Difficulty Manson’s Farm Bannockburn Pinot Noir Central Otago 2019
9. Church Road 1 Cabernet Sauvignon Hawke’s Bay 2021
10. Atípico Omaka Valley Pinot Noir Marlborough 2023

Renée Dale

1. Woodside Hill Reserve Merlot Cabernet Franc Waiheke Island 2019
2. Outside The Box Wines Clay Pot Potion Number 2 Chardonnay Marlborough 2021
3. Decibel Pinot Noir Martinborough 2022
4. Rockburn Tigermoth Riesling Central Otago 2024
5. Church Road Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Hawke’s Bay 2021
6. Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Albariño Marlborough 2023
7. Church Road McDonald Series Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay 2023
8. Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Dry Riesling North Canterbury 2023
9. Decibel Giunta Albariño Hawke’s Bay 2023
10. Pask Small Batch Grand Tawny Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon NV

Edmundo Farrera

1. Luta Echoes Chardonnay Nelson 2022
2. The Empress Chilled Red Marlborough 2023
3. Church Road McDonald Series Sauvignon Blanc Hawke’s Bay 2021
4. Scout Chardonnay Central Otago 2023
5. Te Kairanga John Martin Pinot Noir Martinborough 2023
6. Pegasus Bay Minuetto Sauvignon Semillon North Canterbury 2021
7. Three Fates Rosé Hawke’s Bay 2023
8. Trinity Hill Syrah Hawke’s Bay 2022
9. Oak Estate Alba Hawke’s Bay 2023
10. A Thousand Gods Flōs Pinot Noir Marlborough 2022

1. Hiro Kawahara
2. Rockburn Tigermoth Riesling Central Otago 2024
3. Neudorf Rosie ’s Block Amphora Chardonnay Nelson 2023
4. Jackson Estate Gum Emperor Single Vineyard Pinot Noir Marlborough 2014
5. Quartz Reef Pinot Noir Central Otago 2022
6. Neudorf Home Block Moutere Chardonnay Nelson 2023
7. Dancing Petrel Cabernet Franc Northland 2021
8. Valli The Real McCoy Gibbston Pinot Gris Orange Central Otago 2023
9. Queen of Cups Chenin Blanc Marlborough 2023
10. Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2024
11. Chasing Harvest Pinot Noir Central Otago 2021

Sophie Kim

1. Halite Light Dry Red 2024
2. Urlar Gladstone Pinot Noir Wairarapa 2023
3. Rock Ferry The Corners Vineyard Cabernet Franc Marlborough 2023
4. Pegasus Bay Aria Late Picked Riesling North Canterbury 2023
5. Amoise Gamay Noir Hawke’s Bay 2023
6. Rockburn Amber Pinot Gris Central Otago 2024
7. Jackson Estate Vintage Widow Pinot Noir Marlborough 2019
8. Eaton Raupo Vineyard Pinot Noir Marlborough 2021
9. Domaine Thomson Pinot Noir Central Otago 2021
10. Village Vineyards Ironhorse Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay 2021

Oliver Styles

1. Rockburn Amber Pinot Gris Central Otago 2024
2. Rockburn Tigermoth Riesling Central Otago 2024
3. Mélange Nothing but Flowers Marlborough 2022
4. Mélange Blanc Marlborough 2023
5. Thistledown Gorgeous Shiraz No. 4 Australia 2022
6. Queen of Swords Chardonnay Marlborough 2022
7. Tititea Pinot Noir Central Otago 2023
8. Seresin Beautiful Chaos Natural White Marlborough 2023
9. Mumm Rosé Marlborough NV
10. Lawson’s Dry Hills Single Vineyard Waihopai Valley Riesling Marlborough 2020

Nikki Weir

1. Pegasus Bay Aria Late Picked Riesling North Canterbury 2023
2. Atípico Under the Plum Tree Marlborough 2024
3. Coxs’ Vineyard Pinot Noir Central Otago 2019
4. Stad_ko Pinot Noir Martinborough 2021
5. Deep Down Chardonnay Marlborough 2023
6. Amoise Cabernet Franc Hawke’s Bay 2023
7. A Thousand Gods Blanc Marlborough 2022
8. Huia Brut Rosé Traditional Method Marlborough 2020
9. Spurlock Vineyards Yoko Pinot Noir Marlborough 2022
10. Dancing Petrel Cabernet Franc Northland 2021