Sep 27, 2024 Metro Eats
Kia ora,
Hummus, a staple of Middle Eastern and Eastern Mediterranean culinary traditions, has long been a dish tied to political tensions – particularly when it comes to questions of national identity, cultural continuity and culinary appropriation. This is especially true when you delve into the history of Israel and Palestine. Recently, as Israel’s bombardment of Gaza approaches its one-year mark, and violence spills into Lebanon, the brand of hummus you pick (or don’t pick) from the shelf of your local supermarket shelf has taken on even deeper and more urgent political significance, for reasons best explained here.
Given the moment, it felt like the right time to finally dive into something I’ve been meaning to tackle: ranking supermarket hummus. So, this week, I enlisted Metro editor Henry Oliver and commercial director Tiffany Low for a blind taste test of 10 supermarket brands.
Of course, fresh hummus made by someone who knows what they’re doing is one of the most dreamy foods in the entire world and our favourite takeaway pottle of hummus in the city is the one at Shefco . But supermarket hummus has its place. Here’s our definitive ranking, from the sublime to the subpar – hopefully it helps guide you toward hummus that’s both delicious and not on a boycott list.
(Note: Preferences in hummus textures vary person to person. For transparency, Henry and Charlotte lean towards smooth hummus, while Tiffany prefers a chunkier texture.)
Gemmayze Street Hummus
250g $15.99 from FarroSure, this is a shockingly high price to pay for a not very big jar of hummus but if you can afford to take the financial hit, you’ll get to experience what is, in our opinion, the highest expression of supermarket hummus in the land. Submerged in a vermillion oil, it’s got a perfect mingling of tang, nuttiness, brightness and garlicky mellowness; is texturally luscious; and yet is also somehow at the same time, extraordinarily fluffy.
Alamir Original Hummus
200g $5.99 from Farro
This Wellington-made hummus comes a very close second. Velvety smooth, well-rounded and with a notable depth of chickpea-ness. (In terms of quality to value, this is our top pick.)
Kohkoz hummus
200g $7.99 from Farro
Ultra unctuous with vivid punches of tang and saltiness.
Georgatti Our Hummus
200g $7.99 from Farro
Here lies proof that great hummus needn’t always be the smoothest. Texturally this sits at a kind of midway point between chunky and smooth – and in that sense it’s a crowd-pleasing choice. Thumbs up for the bold deployment of both cumin and coriander seeds too.
Seasons Gourmet kawakawa hummus
400g $4.95 from Woolworths
This, which is our highest ranked hummus from Woolworths, is robust in both consistency and flavour. The atypical inclusion of kawakawa and bush basil lend this hummus a green herbaceousness – something we found pleasing, even if a little offbeat.
Lisa’s Plain Hummus
200g $4.39 from Woolworths
You could easily argue that these pottles, which have been around since 1994, have shaped the nation’s perception of hummus. Lisa’s, while not authentic by any standard use of the word, is likely the first variation of hummus many in this country ever tasted. And for a large number, presumably, it remains the benchmark for all other hummus. Chunky and packed with garlic, it’s lifted by a welcome hit of acidity. While it may not be as perfectly balanced or as refined in texture as some, we found comfort in those imperfections.
Turkish Kitchen Traditional Hummus
200g $3.69 from Woolworths
Very peppery!
Greater Hummus Roasted Garlic
500g $6.20 from Woolworths
Very chunky!
Just Hummus 175g $4.09 from Woolworths
A last resort sort of hummus that’s a little too lumpy and far too cumin-y for our liking.
Woolworths Sriracha hummus
175g $2.90 from Woolworths
Punchy in a way that would be lovely spread onto a chicken sandwich, or scooped with a slice of carrot, or dipped with a chip. But let’s be clear, this is hardly hummus – this is a dip!
Hei konā mai,
Charlotte
P.S. Our Metro Restaurant of the Year awards night, presented with Stella Artois, is open to all and will be held on Monday, 13 October, at St Matthew-in-the-City. You can find tickets here.
Comings and goings.
Hyderabadi restaurant Biryaniwala, which has two existing locations in Papatoetoe and Henderson, has just opened a third restaurant on Dominion Road (just across the road from Burger King). The menu is extensive with a breathless list of dosa and soups and snacks and tandoori dishes and noodles and Indo-Chinese specialties, and of course, a whole lot of biryani.
Daytime spot Lunchbar Eighty8 has just opened its doors in Ōtāhuhu. Following in the footsteps of their original (and still very popular) Hamilton store, they’re serving a bunch of lunch bar dependables but also more unexpected kai Māori options like fry bread with cream pāua, raw fish and kina.
I like the look of Doma, a cute new little deli in Birkenhead that deals in freshly cute cheeses, produce and specialty ingredients produced locally and further afield: Europe, the Balkans and South America. Cool!
And, there are two cafe closures. Big Sur in Grey Lynn closed recently after being put on the market and a brief pivot into also offering dumplings in the evening. This week is also the final week of Neil in Te Atatū Peninsula – they’re hosting a final dinner tonight before a weekend of events to say goodbye.
Where we’re going.
Ngā Ana Wai Market is launching its first market on 5 October at Saint Leonards Brewing Co in Kingsland. Open from 9am to 3pm the market will involve more than 20 local vendors selling coffee, pastries, sourdough, cured meats, fresh flowers, ceramics, jewellery, indoor plants, art and more with 10% of all sales donated to Te Tāpui Atawhai Auckland City Mission, which provides services to Aucklanders in need, from health care to housing support.
This Saturday, Birkenhead bar Bon Pinard will be hosting a bunch of Central Otago wine makers (Maude, Peregrine and Dicey) who will be pouring a selection of their favourite wines. From 12pm-5pm at Bon Pinard.
To celebrate their new coffee window offering takeaway coffees, pizzetta sandwiches and pastries Esther is giving away free coffees on Tuesday 1 October between 11am-2pm. Named Esther Hatch, the new to-go spot is nestled on the Viaduct Avenue side of Esther.
Esther’s Food of the Sun lunch series returns this October with a series of lavish lunches on the second Saturday of each month with menus traversing Capri, Monaco, Casablanca, Santorini, Barcelona and Lisbon. Food of the Sun runs every second Saturday from October through to March. Tickets are $85 per person and include a themed three-course lunch and arrival cocktail. Book here.
Also, if you dine at Esther from 3 to 13 October and mention the phrase, “I’ll have the Barossa thanks” you’ll receive a bottle of the St Hugo Barossa Shiraz as part of a South Australia Tourism Commission promotion.
Running from 1 October SkyCity Auckland is hosting a series of menu specials from restaurants such as Metita, The Grill, Cassia , MASU, Huami , Andy’s Burgers & Bar, Federal Delicatessen, Depot , and Sky Bar. Called Served, this celebration will also involve exclusive events throughout the month including a special evening featuring chefs Michael Meredith, Nic Watt, Al Brown, and Sid Sahrawat, a dumpling masterclass at Huami, and a Diwali celebration at Cassia. Find more information here.
Andoo giveaway
Win!
Spring has sprung and what better time to give your home a refresh? Metro has partnered up with Andoo to give away a $1000 voucher, to be used towards any item on their website.
AND subscribe to the Metro EDM (if you aren’t already subscribed) for the opportunity to receive a surprise voucher*
This competition will run from September 23rd – October 6th 2024, and the winner will be drawn and notified via Instagram on October 7th 2024. This draw is in no way affiliated with Instagram.
*Cannot be used in conjunction with the $1000 giveaway voucher
Announcing the Metro 2024 Cafe AwardsnReader’s Choice Award
with thanks to the Alternative Dairy Co!
Show some love!
NOMINATE YOUR FAVOURITE CAFE AND WIN!
Metro’s Top 50 list of Auckland’s best cafes is returning in our Summer Issue and we’d like you to nominate your favourite cafe for the Reader’s Choice Award.
Comment on this post with your favourite cafe and why it means something to you and you could win a $250 credit to spend there!
Nominations close November 1st.
