Sep 6, 2024 Metro Eats
Kia ora,
As I sit here across the road from my marae, Tuurangawaewae, sipping on black coffee and nibbling toast, I’m writing this week’s newsletter a bit earlier than usual. I’m attending the seventh and final day of the tangihanga of Kiingi Tuheitia, meaning that by the time this newsletter reaches your email inbox, Kiingi Tuheitia will have already been taken by a fleet of waka to his final resting place on Taupiri, his successor will have ascended to the throne, and most of the thousands of people who gathered at the marae will have returned home.
For the past week, hundreds of kaimahi have worked tirelessly, serving tens of thousands of people daily, from dawn until late into the night. They’ve put their individual, everyday lives, jobs and households on pause to contribute to the collective. But in these kitchens, there’s no talk of burden — only rolled-up sleeves, aprons, ubiquitous gumboots and laughter.
Much of this work takes place in Kimiora, the immense wharekai with sweeping views of the river that opened in 1973. Downstairs, in the ‘dungeon’, an abundance of food is peeled, chopped, filleted and butchered, often to a soundtrack of classic hits playing from a radio. It is a hive of activity, a sight to behold. Great boxes of kaimoana and vegetables arrive, fleshy cow carcasses are unloaded from trucks — all edible koha. The kai eventually makes its way upstairs, where batter is prepared, fish is deep-fried, salads are tossed, raw fish is ladled and towering trays of potatoes are cooked in giant commercial ovens before all these dishes are wheeled carefully through the kitchen, squeezing between the various stations of ringawera. Despite the gumboots, the laughter and the music, everything in the kitchen runs at full throttle and with masterful precision. It’s always amazed me how all this donated food (meaning you don’t really know what ingredients you’ll get or how much you’ll receive) is transformed into an expression of manaakitanga.
Earlier this week, I made the journey down from Auckland with my uncle and cousin. That day, the lunch menu consisted of raw fish, pāua, green salad, rīwai, fry bread, steak, sweet and sour fish and a peach and sponge pudding. My cousin and I, eager to help, despite there being no shortage of ringawera, practically begged for a job in the kitchen. We spent about three hours together dredging fish through flour — a task we suspect might usually be done by one person. For two girls who grew up distant from this place, being there in the bustling kitchen and shrugging off our insecurities about not doing enough (no matter how tokenistic the job we were doing really was) meant a lot.
Kiingi Tuheitia will be remembered as a leader, over nearly two decades of kingship, who stood tall when it mattered most — and always in a uniquely down-to-earth, humorous style. As Moana Maniapoto put it, he was “a humble man who rose to the occasion”. This year, he was at the forefront of uniting opposition to the government’s policies on Māori and Te Tiriti o Waitangi, continuing the legacy of the Kiingitanga. Notably, he called for a national meeting at Tuurangawaewae Marae in January this year, drawing thousands from across the country in a powerful expression of kotahitanga, or unity. Just two weeks ago, in his annual Koroneihana speech, he spoke once again of the necessity for kotahitanga.
This is to say, at a particularly charged time for Māori–Crown relations, this passing feels especially tragic. Yet amid this sadness and unease, and just a week after many gave up their time to help prepare food for manuhiri at Koroneihana, the kitchens at Tuurangawaewae are bustling again. Even in his passing, Kiingi Tuheitia’s call for kotahitanga has been actioned.
Hei konā mai,
Charlotte
Comings and goings.
Ex- Prego chef Sid Chopra has just opened a new restaurant called Goat on Wyndham St. The concept is modern Indian, and I’m quite excited about what I’ve read and heard about the place. The restaurant’s namesake dish, “The Goat” or champaran, hails from the Bihar region and involves slow-cooked goat meat, spices and whole garlic. In fact, the whole menu comprises dishes which tour the various regions of India, with dishes from Mumbai, Delhi, Kashmir, Goa and beyond. Oh, and the cocktails sound incredible. I’m most enthused by the sound of the “Thandai Tres Leches”, which fuses the Mexican dessert with saffron milk, dry fruits and a blend of spices.
Colossal Asian supermarket Foodie opened in Westgate last week, right next to the also-massive Costco store. Spanning around 3,800 square metres, it just might be the biggest Asian supermarket in the country. I’ll make a visit once the crowds and lines (which I’ve heard are immense) have eased off.
Mad Pot, the Malatang spot in Albany, has opened a new branch in the former Mojo space on Durham St in the central city. Expect the same hits — dishes cooked in classic beef soup, dry pots, and their tomato soup brimming with whatever mix of vegetables, noodles, meats and seafood you curate from their open chillers.
It’s hard to keep up with the ever-expanding number of offshoots of coffee roastery Dear Deer, but there’s a new addition in Ellerslie which looks like a wonderfully sunny place to pop in for a coffee. From the looks of it you’ll find the usual line-up of beans, but also a bunch of excellent-looking toasties — including a truffle and mushroom one and a bacon jam variety.
Over on Halsey St downtown, there’s a new fish-and-chip-esque takeaway spot called Catch and Crisps. Fish and chips shops are hard to come by in the central city, and while I’d argue this isn’t quite a proper fish and chip shop, they do serve English-style fish and chips complete with mushy peas. Beyond that, the menu is made up of an eclectic array of seafood dishes: grilled fish bowls, prawn toasts, crab dogs, a prawn penne and curry fish balls.
With spring arriving, the shift in seasons has sparked some menu shake-ups and transformations around town.
This week, Ponsonby restaurant Sidart traded in its fine-dining roots for a more casual, modern take on Italian cuisine, complete with a dining room redesigned to be more laid-back.
Meanwhile, Bar Céleste , which pivoted to serving New Haven-style pizza in May, has now switched back to their original neo bistro-style offering. While the pizza was yum, I have to admit that I’m thrilled to see the return of the old menu… especially the flounder, which I’ve been craving all winter.
If you cast your mind back about a decade, to the early days of Kiss Kiss, you may recall that the restaurant operated during the daytime as a cafe with coffee, some quite ahead-of-their-time breakfasts and cabinet food (lots of pandan and charcoal and orange blossom going on). They’re now bringing the daytime hours back with coffee and cabinet food from 7am to 11am, Monday–Friday — it seems like a smart move, too, given this corner of town is relatively short on coffee options.
Namu Group (which also operates Dweji, Aigo, Gemmi and Tobi) closed its Commercial Bay restaurant Pōni last week, announcing the closure on its social media and website. Apparently, chef Nic Watt will be opening his new eatery CānTīng in the same space later this year.
After two decades of operating, Mexican Specialties shut earlier this week. I still vividly recall making a trip there when I was in high school (presumably during its original ownership) on a rainy day with my best friend and being enamoured of the food and decor of the place — one of those formative food experiences. We felt like we’d ‘discovered’ a hidden gem.
Hot.
The crispy pork bánh mì from Happy Vietnamese in Kingsland.
The Cuban Sandwich stall in Queens Court .
Puccho chewy candy, in the juicy grape flavour. (Find it by the counter at Daikoku on High St.)
Celery salads with zingy dressing. (A good way to make the most of cheap celery prices!)
The gondeure sotbap from SangSang.
Amba sauce.
Cheds.
Lilian ’s very sophisticated date, chai, soda and peat non-alcoholic drink option.
The Wild Fermentary gold sauerkraut. This is off-brand for me, but I’m obsessed with this stuff.
And, if you find yourself in Kirikiriroa, I highly recommend Bala’s Kitchen Takeaway and Restaurant in Claudelands (get the fish fry, the curry dosa, and wash it all down with a filter coffee).
Not.
Cutting toast and tea for new mums. Miserly! (Though it’s now been brought back.)
Sugar-free drinks. Yuck.
Where we’re going.
Lillius is hosting another lunch as part of their Uptown Snackastation series this Sunday, 8 September. This time, Lillius chef Fraser McCathy is teaming up with Tommy Hope of The French Café for a long lunch, creating 15 snacks between them. Dining slots start from 1pm and are $150pp with an optional wine pairing for $70pp. Book here.
To mark the International Day of Food Waste, local food rescue charity Fair Food is partnering with Coco’s Cantina for a fundraising lunch on Sunday, 29 September. Tickets are $85 and include an arrival drink, a seasonally inspired lunch showcasing sustainable food practices, and a handmade ceramic tumbler from Auckland Studio Potters. Buy tickets here.
On Saturday, 21 September, from 3pm, Norma Taps will transform the City Works Depot car park into a block party celebrating the Bledisloe Cup match between the All Blacks and Australia. You’ll be able to watch the game on giant screens, with commentary from The Alternative Commentary Collective, and later there will be an outdoor stage featuring local DJs until 11pm. Norma Taps will also be serving their signature kegged cocktails alongside a selection of food.
–
Pot Luck delivers free to the finest inboxes of Auckland every week(ish)!
Sign up to get it here
